We are a cycling community enthusiastic about mountain biking and all things related. Please follow proper reddiquetteand if you haven't already, take a moment to read our wiki page and learn a bit about the site's history.
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If you want to submit a trail or bike photo instead — your new bike leaning against a tree, or the view from top of the trail, for example — add it to the Weekly Gear Gallery Thread. Book: Mastering Mountain Bike Skills. Doc: Bike Buying Guide. Thread: Clipless vs.
Flat Pedals. Thread: Mountain Biking First Aid. Thread: Wet Riding Conditions. Convert my Shimano SLX 2x10 to a 1x10 setup self. So I have attempted to read up on this, but it's still escaping me somewhat.
Secondly, I'm not sure which crankset would be ideal. I do know that I like a 30T setup - specifically 30T x which is what my other bike is setup as.
From what I gather it's dependent on matching Bottom Bracket compatibility - which Giant. Lastly, I am not sure how common a cassette is in a 10 speed range.We are a cycling community enthusiastic about mountain biking and all things related.
Please follow proper reddiquetteand if you haven't already, take a moment to read our wiki page and learn a bit about the site's history. Remember to vote based on quality, not opinion, and keep your submission titles factual and opinion-free. Do not downvote opinions just because you disagree with them.
If you think your post was removed by mistake, use the message the moderators link in the sidebar and include a link to your post.
Otherwise we'll ignore it. We are busy, after all. If you need help choosing a bike, please be sure to tag your post with the WhichBike flair, and include some basic information, like your price range and the type of riding you'll be doing. If you want to submit a trail or bike photo instead — your new bike leaning against a tree, or the view from top of the trail, for example — add it to the Weekly Gear Gallery Thread. Book: Mastering Mountain Bike Skills.
Doc: Bike Buying Guide. Thread: Clipless vs. Flat Pedals. Thread: Mountain Biking First Aid. Thread: Wet Riding Conditions. Is it worth upgrading from 2x10 to a 1x11? I'll have to change my cassette and chain soon and am wondering if I should pull the trigger on switching to a 1x system I really like the 1X11 system.
I was worried coming from my starter bike with a 3X9. Mostly that I wouldn't have a good enough granny gear. It hasn't been a problem at all. I love not having to worry about the front derailleur. It really simplifies things. Honestly- i wouldnt upgrade to 1x. Just wait until you need a new drivetrain or a new bike. It does the same thing at the end of the day, just not as slick. I don't miss the 2x and I have ridden many 1x11 and 1x12 and don't see much advantage for the slightly better range.
I do run a big front chainring though 36T. Assuming your crank is the 2X SLX you can just buy spacers and bolt up a narrow wide ring and you won't have to change anything else. That way you could always change over to 1x11 later if you decide you need more range.
If your racing you won't be using a granny gear anyway, 1x10 should be plenty. Try it first before you spend a bunch of money. I think so. I upgraded from a sram 2x10 chainring; cassette to a mostly gx 1x11 32 chainring; cassette on a 29er.
I have nearly the entire range in a more simple drivetrain without the hassle of the FD. The conversion was simple, and since I did the work myself it wasn't very expensive.Jump to content.
Posted 09 April - So at the least you'll need shifter Cassette chain chainring. Not even chainring. All you need if you already have a narrow wide ring is cassette RD shifter and chain. If you go Shimano or sunrace for the cassette you will be able to use your existing free hub body. If you want so. You can use your existing crank. You can use your existing chainring. You just need what I've highlighted above.
Unless your existing chainring is toast. Oh yeah I forgot the rear mech is also quite important. Currently run 1x What must all be changed for a 1x11 conversion. I would assume, rear deraileur, cluster, chain, front chain ring, cranks and then shifter. Must the rar hub also be changed. I wish I had just bought a 1X10 Sunrace cassette.
I am not sure which system you current have, but I would seriously advise you to feel a shimano 1X11 system before buying. It is common complaint or recommendation. Some guys like the 'crispness' as they call it, while many think it is clunky and dislike it.
That Shimano cassette is not the greatest due to the massive jump between the two large cogs. If you are only going to have and if you have long- or medium- cage 1X10 systemwhy not just change the cassette instead of the whole palava?
Posted 10 April - I have walked around a few shops and felt the shift difference between SLX M and XT M and the XT definately feels more clunky, especially on downshifts with and without the clutch engaged I suppose it depends on what you prefer I suppose the difference is where you guys feel the shifts are clunky I see them as a solid engagement. No farting around with has it shifted or not. The shifts were very "vague" in my opinion.Have you converted your bike to 1X in the past 5 years?
Find out how to optimize your setup and save money. Chainline is the distance between the centerline of your frame and the average centerline of your chainring s. For 1X this is easy — If the center of your chainring teeth is 49mm from the centerline of your frame then your chainline is 49mm.
It gets slightly more difficult if you have multiple front chainrings. A 2X crank with tooth centerlines that are located at 45mm smaller ring and 53mm larger ring would have a 49mm 2X chainline.
Unfortunately, if you were to remove these rings and install a standard narrow-wide ring the resulting 1X chainline would be about 52mm. This is 3mm wider than the ideal 49mm 1X chainline but makes up the vast majority of all 1X conversions.
Below is a detailed guide to help you get perfect chainline. Bicycle chainline is one of the most overlooked aspects of drivetrain setup for 1X systems. This is understandable since before mountain cranksets were a pretty standardized piece of equipment.
As such we haven't been conditioned to think about it - That has all changed. So what is Boost ? Boost was created to give frame makers more design freedom for tire and front derailleur clearance. From a drivetrain perspective it moves the cassette 3mm away from the frame centerline.
The new ideal chainline for Boost bikes is mm. What do I need to do to setup my Chainline Correctly? OneUp is the only chainring manufacturer to provide shims with our rings to tune your chainline based on your components. Menu Cart. Continue Shopping Your Cart is Empty. Aluminum Pedal Comp Pedal. What is chainline?
The granny ring mounted via its own bolts on a 4 bolt 64mm BCD pattern. Most major crank manufacturers during this time shared this standardized configuration. All three of these setups shared the same crank spider configuration. XX1 and the similar products that came in the following years had one ring with a 49mm chainline. It is now well understood that the ideal 1X trail bike has a mm chainline. Follow the chart below to get the best possible performance out of your 1X setup. Company About us.Jump to content.
Understanding Chainline for Optimal 1X Conversions (Boost and Non-Boost)
Posted 07 November - Hell even my derailer is due a replacement. Ive always had 2x10 sram mixed with xt derailers front and back including xt shifters. QUestion is this, should i replace what needs to be replaced for approx R5k or go the 1x12 route with the sram GX for approx R7k.
Also currently running 2x10 XT and been thinking hard about this. I'm leaning quite heavily towards the 1x12 when it comes time to replace. Short answer - it depends on your current setup, as in what blades you have in front, and what cassette you have at the back. Any variation in the above numbers will cause a differential in either the top or the bottom, unless you get the e t cassette, which gives you additional bottom end and allows you to have a slightly smaller front ring at the same time.
If you look at the available ratios on both systems, the 1x12 is always going to be a compromise. Either on the granny gear or the top end.
Have also looked at this and for me at least, I will be sticking with the 2x My legs just are not good enough for a 1x Maybe I am wrong, but for me it seems like the best option. Forgot to add that out of all the 1x systems, the e that Myles mentioned, does seem like the best fit. However for me I would have to add the cost of a new free hub or something like that.
I would say "yes", but first tell us what your current setup is. If you're running with a cassette then you will be able to replicate that just about to the number on a 1x12 using a 36T chainring. As above, tell us what you're currently running then we can have a look. Ratio 1. I have recently come from XT 2x10 to GX 1x The biggest ball ache of 2x was dropped chains on the downshift.
My 2x had an even bigger range than what Myles mentioned above. I had on the front with the cassette. I would put a 34T chainring on if I could, but only to try stay out of the small cassette cogs to reduce wear.
Had a 24 but battled. Should you go 1x12 you can opt for a 32T chainring and have a granny that's between your current and that of the 24T you had before and still have the same top end.
Slightly down, but not much. Any feedback would be appreciated. Gear Event News Industry news Promotions.Shimano XT 2x11 to 1x11 conversion. Previous Page Next Page. Post Message. Author Message. Basically you'll pull the small ring off, and then you can replace the remaining ring with whatever size you want from Shimano which only comes down to a It was my understanding that you just need to remove the front mech, swap out both front rigs for a single NW ring, and swap out the rear cassette for a wider range cassette?
RBL wrote: Daft question I'm sure, but what is wrong with 2x11? Why do you want to change? All rights reserved. Mobile Version of Website. Posted: Oct 15, at Hey guys. I've only recently got back into the bike scene after a good 10 years out so forgive my stupidity. I've got a Trek Fuel Ex 9. I want to convert to single speed.
Upgrade current 1x10 to 1x11? OR is 1x12 worth it? (in early 2020)
Am I right in assuming this will be a direct fit and pretty simple swap over? Will I need spacers or anything? Thanks in advance. Pretty simple yep. Posted: Oct 16, at Also wondering the same thing. Posted: Oct 17, at Daft question I'm sure, but what is wrong with 2x11? RBL wrote:. Posted: Oct 18, at WasabiJim wrote:.
But not "Old School".Toggle navigation. Categories Discussions Sign in. I plan to convert my Anthem 2 to a 1x11 geartrain.
And then removing the front mech shifter and cables? My current cassette is a SHimano HG50 11x I read in an online guide that it is advisable to remove the 15 or 17 cog, and replace it with a 40t or 42t cog? What are all this options for a shifter?! Dont know if its medium cage or long cage? Many thanks. The Rookie Posts: 27, April You seem to have read many articles and got the information confused! To go to 1x11 from ten speed will need need shifter, rear mech, cassette and chain as well as the single specific or better still narrow wide chainring, none of the ten speed stuff will work for 1x To go 1x10 you can do by removing just the front shifting and fitting a chainring, if it's not narrow wide you will need a chain guide.
The removing two sprockets and replacing with one is only if you are using 1x10 with an expander ring otherwise you'd end up with 9 gears obviouslyyou can remove either one or better still both and replace with a 16t for better progression through the gears, but you have to start with an XT cassette. The Rookie wrote:. Superstar chain rings are very good! So, can someone please confirm, before I pull the trigger: I'll get a compatible narrow-wide chain ring, from Superstar or Race Face Remove my exising double chainrings, bolt the new 32t Chainring to my existing SLX crank arms Remove front mech shifter and cables.
Is that it? Any change to my current KMC X10 chain? Pretty much yes. When I converted mine I had an issue with centering the chain line but I blame my cranks. Just do it. If your not very fit you'll need a 32, I do, and I'm fairly fit. If your normal rides are flat terrain you'll be ok with a But as you seem to be asking a lot I'd guess not. So I checked Shimano website for specifications of my SLX crankset, and there is a lot of infor there, but can't find my double 10 speed crankset there?
As per Shimano tech docs I suggested checking it's a which is by far and away the most common size. LimitedGarry Posts: Should be the You can verify it yourself by measuring the distance between the middle of the crank and middle of the bolt. You can fit a 30 to a as well I had a ringmaster, not at all impressed. My son who is superfit just went from a shimano triple up front to a 30T with cassette at the back and he says its fine.
He's played it safe, but as it's easy enough to swap and add a bigger front instead, it's not a huge risk. What you're losing is top end speed, but for that read road-type speed. Plenty fast enough to be going at a decent pace on a flat road on a full suss MTB. For comparison, a 34T front ring would get you to Not a huge difference.